![]() Give it a try, I think you'll become a convert! It really works well. Since it is a two part catalyzed putty just like regular Bondo or Evercoat, it's properties are the same on models, in that it won't shrink. That glazing/spot putty works as well as Evercoat does on models, sanding easily, feathering well, & adhering nicely. Given that the can of Bondo didn't work as well as the Evercoat had, (while both were good & the Bondo did work, just needing more sanding than the Evercoat), I initially thought the Bond Glazing/Spot putty would be similar. I was ready to try a cheaper alternative. I forget who recommended the two part Bondo spot putty on here, but after having the last two cans of Evercoat Eurosoft & a can of Bondo, (which at least was cheaper), go bad on me. I understand Chris & I agree the Evercoat is great stuff. Thanks for the Bondo brand recommendation! I will look for that. I couldn't agree more, Mark! I am currently trying to rescue a large tube of Evercoat 2-part it is drying out. Again its a preference thing and like how it sprays versus other brands out there. I have also been using PPG and HOK basecoat/clearcoat for painting my bodies. I will have to pick up a tube of this 3M bondo and give it a try. One of my good friend's dad who painted my real 71 El Camino and has been painting cars for an easy 25+ years recommended the evercoat to me and that would be good to use on plastic models. This is what I have been using for years and have been happy with it. If the Bondo I use on models wasn't as good for what we do as the Evercoat is, I would say so. Trust me, I worked at Freightliner as a painter/bodyman for 11 years, as well as working at my cousin's bodyshop for over a year & used Evercoat exclusively in both places, so I know how good it is. An added plus with the Bondo I recommend & models is it's easier to control the amount coming out of the tube than it is dipping it out of the can. It's going to work, sand & feather out just like Evercoat on a model. For models only, save your money stick with the two part Bondo Professional Glazing Putty in the tube that I showed. If you're going to use it on 1/1 cars as well as models, then by all means I recommend it, but for what we do, it's more expensive than it's worth. Then use filler to finish, if needed.įor working on models, Evercoat is the biggest waste of money that there is!ĭon't get me wrong, Evercoat is a great two part putty, probably the best that there is out there, & my personal favorite for 1/1 cars, but a can that size will set you back around $40 most places, & you run the risk of the putty going bad before you can use it all. You would fill with metal, be it a patch or even welding it up in the case of small pinholes. It's basically the same as working with a 1:1, you never try to fill a hole with Bondo, it simply won't stay put. Sand it to the rough shape, then use the filler to finish. That will fill the hole with a stong, compatible material with the surrounding plastic. You should fill them either using the taillight peices (if you're not using them elsewhere) or possibly sheet plastic. If you're trying to fill the taillight holes using only filler, that is the main thing that's causing problems. It can be found at the flaps, and sometimes Wal-Mart has it in stock, too. You'll want the stuff that has 2 tubes (one filler, one catalyst) in the package. Thsi is not to be confused with the old red Glazing Putty that has been around forever, which is a single component filler. Bondo brand is now owned by 3M but it's kinda the low end of the line.What you would want to use is the 2 part Professional Glazing Putty, which comes in a tube. Not all 2-part fillers are created equal. 3M actually has 3 different grades with different working times (all pretty short). It won't necessarily stick well to arbitrary bare surfaces, and it's rather brittle when dry. It sands really easily compared to the 2-part filler. It's designed to be applied *over* primer in small areas (hence the name "spot putty"). ![]() Too thick and you'll have a long cure time and possible shrinkage cracking. It cures by solvent evaporation (the 3M good stuff is also photoreactive) and thus needs to be kept in a thin layer. The single-part spot putty is completely different. It's a good bit stronger than the spot putty and can withstand some flexing. ![]() Machine or block sanding is really the ticket for this stuff.to really cut it you may need to start with fairly coarse stuff - 80 to 120 grit. You can slather it on in pretty broad areas to level a surface. ![]() Very short working time and serious fumes while curing. It is a little gummy to sand if not fully cured and especially if not enough hardener is used. As noted it will stick to nearly anything and cures quickly by catalyzing, even in a thick layer. They both have their uses! The 2-part is a good ol' polyester resin (aka gelcoat) with fillers.
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